Sitting next to West Red Lodge Creek, just inside the Custer National Forest, right up next to the Beartooth Wilderness, John was by my side, the beer was very cold, the creek very clear and it was welcome to be still after a demanding drive. I don’t know what gave the Beartooth Highway its name, but my teeth were clenched as we switched back and forth up more than 5,000 feet. I had to remind myself out loud to breath as the car pointed again and again into the void. Spectacular views were sometimes second to spectacular fear until we reached the top and walked through delicate tundra staying clear of knee buckling edges. Later we discovered the Chief Joseph Highway to be fairly tame with shoulders rolling rather than dropping off. Still spectacular rock faces thrust out of the earth reminding me more introspectively of the volatile nature of the planet. The ground we walk on has not always been as it is and it will not always remain so.